One of the best ways to experience the different faces of Greenland is to travel as the Greenlanders do. The coastal passenger ship Sarfaq Ittuk has a scheduled service sailing the 1330 km between Ilulissat and Narsaq calling at 11 towns and settlements en route.
Like pearls on a string
For some 4,500 years Greenlanders have based their existence on locations on the edge of the coast with direct access to the resources of the sea. Their homes are still found on the coast to this very day: colourful towns and photogenic settlements dotted like pearls on a string from the Norse settlers' fertile grass fields and meadows of flowers in South Greenland through the vibrancy of the bigger towns in central Greenland to the sled dogs and enormous icy fells in North Greenland. There are no railways or roads to link these locations - so journeys must be made by sea.
As the locals do
As mentioned, one of the best ways to experience the different faces of Greenland is to travel as the Greenlanders do. At several ports the ship docks for several hours, thus enabling you to visit and do a bit of sightseeing. You can sleep in a cabin with your own bathroom and toilet or you can choose a bunk in the dormitories and thus get better acquainted with the lives and stories of the Greenlandic folk.
The most beautiful journey
Irrespective of whether you choose to take the whole voyage from south to north or you decide to go onboard en route, whether you're travelling independently or as part of a group holiday, you can be absolutely sure that this is an authentic piece of Greenland - up close. You can sail during the summer's white nights when it can be virtually impossible to tear yourself away from the midnight sun or the chance of spotting whales or seeing the special phenomenon known as ammissut, when seals gather in herds and splash on the surface of the water so that the sea appears to boil. Or the dark nights of the spring and autumn, where you can stand on deck without the pollution of stray light from the towns and be enthralled by the magical dance of the northern lights flickering across the sky, which here onboard the ship is clearer than in most places on land. Up here on the deck you have the beauty of the moment entirely to yourself.
Life onboard
Sarfaq Ittuk is Greenland's 'railway' on which tourists and locals travel together. The 22-strong crew look after up to 270 passengers. Some guests only stay a single night, whilst others remain onboard for the entire voyage between north and south. The trip's never monotonous, and during the space of a few days you'll see for yourself how varied Greenland's landscape actually is. Passengers are quick to strike up conversations and they often find that they have acquaintances in common - which can lead to a wealth of tall tales and memories. Tourists are treated to stories from everyday life, whilst the ever-changing coastline glides by outside the windows.
…on dry land
When the ship calls at port, you'll be witness to a myriad of stories and moods. Families and friends kiss, hug and cry a hello or an au revoir. The whole town comes out to greet a returning sports team that has just become champions of Greenland in football, handball or taekwondo, and is now celebrated as the small community's heroes with songs, banners and cheers. And then there are those who've just popped down to the quay - just in case they bump into someone they know.
Read more about booking, package tours and timetables at www.aul.gl.