In general
The majority of Greenland's nature is actual wilderness, with few
or no paths, numerous mountains, rivers and glaciers. The very
clear air means that it can be hard to judge distances; it is often
a lot further to a given point than you might think. The terrain's
degree of difficulty varies from the very easy to the very
challenging. It means there are options available for hiking
tourists of all abilities. Both the laid-back pedestrian
day-tripper and the experienced, well-trained hiker will find
endless possibilities to explore the Greenlandic nature.
Everyone should be aware that help can be a long way away and that
mobile phone coverage is rare when you are out in the heart of the
wilderness. The weather is generally stable in the summer, but
sudden weather changes can also occur. Thorough preparation is
essential, as is having the right equipment and listening to the
advice of those with local knowledge. Making and keeping agreements
about expected news and return is equally important.
Paths by towns and settlements
There are paths close to most towns and settlements that lead out
in the mountains. Some of these are marked as hiking routes, but
many of the paths disappear once you move slightly away from
built-up areas. It is therefore important to always keep track of
where you are, and a map, compass and GPS (including spare
batteries) are essential. There are a number of 1:100.000 hiking
maps that are very accurate, but many areas are only covered by
1:250.000 maps, which are not particularly well suited as hiking
maps.
Open terrain
When straying from paths into open terrain, it is always tempting
to take the shortest route. But the shortest route can sometimes
prove to be the hardest. You can unintentionally find yourself in a
place that you can neither leave nor get to - while it is much
easier to walk and semi-climb upwards, it is also much harder to
walk downwards. If you are hiking over the top of somewhere and
need to start using your hands to go further, then your hike has in
fact turned into a climb, and it can suddenly prove difficult to
get back down. So always make sure a retreat is possible.
Crossing rivers
When walking in Greenland you will most certainly have to cross a
stream or a river. Few hikers avoid getting their feet wet at one
time or another.
The water flow in Greenland's rivers can vary enormously. A small
stream can swell to a gushing river if it starts to rain. The
rivers born of glaciers vary significantly in intensity depending
on the temperature. The water flow in these rivers is typically
calmest in the mornings and roughest late in the afternoon. If you
cannot walk across dry-foot, then you will have to wade through the
water. Keep your hiking boots on, but take your socks off first. A
good rule of thumb is that gushing water should never reach higher
than your knees - otherwise you risk getting knocked over. A pair
of hiking sticks/ski batons really help keep the balance. If you
feel unsure then turn around.
If it is very important to cross, and you are unsure whether you
can, then tie a rope to the person crossing. Should he/she fall in,
they can be pulled to safety by someone else in the group - you
need to be at least three in your group to do this. The rope should
be doubled up so that everyone can use it to get across. If you
have the slightest doubt, don't do it.
Glaciers
All glaciers have crevices. A glacier with snow has hidden
crevices and you should therefore avoid walking on a snow-covered
glacier unless you have at least three people in your group with
complete glacier equipment (braces, rope, ice axes, crampons and
equipment for glacier crevice rescue). If there is no snow on the
glacier, which is the case with the lower lying glaciers in the
summer, then you can sometimes walk quite safely on them. You
should however be equipped with crampons or smaller crampons that
can be fitted to hiking shoes and boots as well as have a hiking
stick. The ice is slippery with many sharp stones scattered on the
surface, so it is easy to get cuts and bruises, - wear gloves, long
trousers and long sleeves. NEVER walk without a rope on
snow-covered areas of a glacier!
Camping
When choosing a safe place to camp, look around you: Is there a
risk of rock falls? Is there a risk of high tide and waves reaching
the tent? It is relatively easy to see where there have been
previous rock falls and it is never a good idea to camp there, so
this is something that should always be fairly straightforward to
determine. There are often many good places to camp in the fjords
close to the water, but there is a big difference between high and
low tide, which means you can get caught out and the water can get
too close to the tent. Check to see where growth is dense and dry,
as this is where the water does not reach.
If you camp by a fjord with large icebergs or where a glacier
ends, there is a risk of one of the icebergs falling or the glacier
calving, which causes extremely big waves. Waves can reach several
meters up on land. A good rule of thumb is to camp higher up than
the distance the tallest icebergs reach above the water's
surface - or higher than the glacier front.
Wind and weather
The weather is often good and stable in the summer. The weather
forecasts are more or less reliable 3-4 days ahead, but you can get
a surprise visit from the Föhn winds from the inland ice, and every
sunny day produces a fresh, powerful sea breeze in the fjords. The
sea breeze always comes quite quickly in the morning and eases off
in the evening. Kayakers will very quickly experience this and may
choose to paddle early in the morning, which of course they can in
summer as it is light all day and night.
A spell of bad weather with rain and wind lasting several days is
to be expected in between, so never overestimate your own
capabilities. The relatively low temperatures combined with rain
and wind can lead to hypothermia, which can be a life-threatening
condition. Better to be bored in your tent than soaked through and
cold.
Communication
It can be a benefit that mobile phone coverage is mostly
unavailable, because then you really do get to have a holiday and
feel far away from the daily routine as well as be free from calls,
texts and emails. The disadvantage is that help is further away,
which means you need to keep your wits about you so that you are
always ready to handle any emergency situation.
Should you want a greater degree of safety then buy a "SPOT -
Satellite Personal Tracker". The SPOT can be programmed to send a
location and a daily "OK" to an email or telephone number of your
choice. In an emergency situation you can send a "Help", which will
also instantly highlight your location. Better, and considerably
more expensive, is an Iridium satellite phone, which you can use to
contact people with directly. It allows you to provide exact
information about your problem and help can be tailored to the
situation.
Research and own experience
Greenland provides endless opportunities for all those wanting to
experience a unique nature. For your trip to be successful you need
to gather as much information as possible. Every destination holds
a wealth of local knowledge that you should research and listen to.
Such information combined with your own experience should give you
an idea of the trip ahead of you and of what you need to do to
prepare. If you are on your own or have any doubts whatsoever, then
there are plenty of tour operators that can help arrange hiking and
kayaking trips on a highly professional level.