Qaqortoq means "(the) White" and is South Greenland's biggest town. The town covers a large area and has slowly spread up the sides of the fells. Qaqortoq now resembles an amphitheatre and welcomes visitors with open arms. The colourful houses look like the colours on an artist's palette and shine in the Arctic sun.

By Ole G. Jensen

As is the case in the majority of Greenland's towns, everything's within walking distance, so you can comfortably stroll through the town absorbing the multitude of visual impressions. If you wish to quickly get your bearings in the town, you can take the local bus which runs round the town a couple of times an hour. A round trip takes around 30 minutes and is a pleasant experience in the company of older generations of Greenlanders busy telling stories and happy schoolchildren on their way home.

The rocky slopes behind the tourist office at the harbour make a good place to begin exploring the artistic project 'Inuk ujarallu' ('Stone and Man').

Art chiselled into the rocks

Along with a number of foreign artists, local artist Aka Høegh has created a large number of sculptures in the rocks which are concentrated in the area between the hotel and the tourist office, but can otherwise be found all over the town. Get an overview of the sculptures and the artists at the tourist office and begin to explore. It's an interesting way to guide you round the entire town and there are 31 sculptures to find in all.

There are enough for a couple of days, as you're bound to be distracted and find other fascinating attractions underway. Don't miss out on the exciting decoration also produced by Aka Høegh in the assembly hall at Kujataata Ilinniarnertuunngorfia (the town's upper secondary college). Katersortarfik (the local hall), which is often open and where bingo is played, is also worth a visit.

The town centre and meeting point

At the town's meeting point on the main square there's a very decorative fountain where you can relax in the sun and enjoy a cup of coffee and see children fishing for trout in the river. It's also the site of Greenlandic artist Hans Lynge's beautiful bronze sculpture of a Greenlandic woman.

Cross the river and visit the "Board" - the market for fish, meat and fresh vegetables, where fishermen, hunters and sheep-farmers sell their wares. It's an exciting experience to see the diversity of products on sale and the activity that's generated around the board. Fresh fish lie in long rows and another table displays seal or whale meat from the morning's catch. It's best to come during the morning, where the choice is greatest and the level of activity at its highest.

From the town's beginnings, old Qaqortoq was concentrated around the square and it's here that you'll find the town's oldest house from 1804, which has now been turned into a museum. At the museum there's an impressive exhibition of 'tupilaks' produced by local artists Aron and Cecilie Kleist. The museum also has a succession of art exhibitions and a collection of kayaks, national costumes and other items that illustrate Greenlandic culture. The gardens are home to a reconstruction of a turf house, which was the typical Greenlandic dwelling in the first half of the 20th century. The museum shop has an extensive selection of books about Greenland. Visit the pleasant museum gardens, where you can enjoy the sunshine and write your postcards.

Sealskin products at their very best

On the other side of the harbour a long red building houses Great Greenland, Greenland's only tannery and to which sealskins from the whole country are sent for processing. In the shop you can see and buy attractive furs and other souvenirs which support the Greenlandic seal hunters.

After one or more days of art and culture, it's great to be able to digest these impressions on a hike around Tasersuaq (the Great Lake), the town's water reservoir. The hike can start from the High School and follow the path around the lake. The hike is suitable for the majority of tourists and can be completed in 3-4 hours, enabling you to see the town from the water and enjoy the beautiful scenery of South Greenland. Make it a proper excursion and take a packed lunch and some water with you, although the water in the numerous watercourses is perfectly safe to drink.

Excursions from Qaqortoq

When you're in Qaqortoq, there are a couple of excursions which you definitely shouldn't miss out on: the first is the famous Hvalsey church ruin, whilst the second is the agricultural research station and sheep-farming school, Upernaviarsuk. Both destinations are a short sailing trip from the town, and the tourist office regularly organises combined trips so that you can see both attractions. In addition, private operators have certified passenger boats that can be chartered for the trip to these destinations.

Hvalsey church ruins are the best preserved ruins from the time of the Norse settlers and feature intact walls 6-7 metres high, door openings and windows - in fact only the roof is missing. You can feel the presence of history when setting foot in the beautiful ruins of this church, which was probably built in the 14th century.

On the way to the ruin you'll find the agricultural research station, Upernaviarsuk. In addition to research at the research station itself, plant production trials are conducted at the properties of sheep-farmers in the region. Have a quick peek at the greenhouses and see the attractive tomatoes and cucumbers that are sold in Qaqortoq. Affiliated to the research station is a sheep-farming school, from which up to six sheep-farmers qualify every year.

The hot springs

The hot springs at Uunartoq are a third unmissable attraction. The tourist office will be happy to organise trips to the hot springs. In a couple of natural waterholes 38-degree hot water bubbles up from below and you can lie in the warm water and admire the huge icebergs floating by - a truly unforgettable experience. Close to the springs you can find a number of ruins of Eskimo dwellings dating from the 16th century.

The tourist office, which also has a very well-assorted souvenir shop, is housed in a large red wooden building at the harbour. The staff there will be happy to help you with any requests you may have concerning your visit to Qaqortoq.

If you don't manage to see everything, then of course you're welcome to return; Qaqortoq is always well worth a visit.

For more information, please see:

Tourist office www.sagalands.com
Blue Ice Explorer www.blueice.gl

F.F. Wilderness Tours www.wilderness-tours.com